Making an Offer
When it comes time to make an offer you will require current market information and assistance in drafting your offer. You will need a Real Estate Professional.
A Real Estate Professional will communicate your Offer to Purchase to the seller, or the seller's representative, on your behalf. Sometimes there may be more than one offer on a property at the same time. A Real Estate Professional can guide you through this process.
"HELPING YOU IS WHAT I DO"
Peter Tarshis
Royal LePage Real Estate
55 St. Clair Ave. West
Toronto, M4V 2Y7
416.921.1112 office
416.921.7424 fax
1.800.622.9536 toll-free
416.705.1181 cell/text
Search Listing's> www.PeterTarshis.com
Real Estate news> http://tinyurl.com/6gme5ev
Master Sales Award 2010 Royal LePage
I Believe in building relationships.
I am here to meet your needs
- to Serve & Protect - Your Investment.
Thank You for Your Trust.
Monday, January 9, 2012
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Here are ten tips to help you prepare your home for winter:
1) Furnace Inspection:
Call an HVAC professional to inspect your furnace and clean ducts.
Stock up on furnace filters and change them monthly.
Consider switching out your thermostat for a programmable thermostat.
If your home is heated by a hot-water radiator, bleed the valves by opening them slightly and when water appears, close them.
Remove all flammable material from the area surrounding your furnace.
2) Get the Fireplace Ready:
Cap or screen the top of the chimney to keep out rodents and birds.
If the chimney hasn't been cleaned for a while, call a chimney sweep to remove soot and creosote.
Buy firewood or chop wood.
Store it in a dry place away from the exterior of your home.
Inspect the fireplace damper for proper opening and closing.
Check the mortar between bricks and tuckpoint, if necessary.
3) Check the Exterior, Doors and Windows:
Inspect exterior for crevice cracks and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them.
Use weather-stripping around doors to prevent cold air from entering the home and caulk windows.
Replace cracked glass in windows and, if you end up replacing the entire window, prime and paint exposed wood.
If your home has a basement, consider protecting its window wells by covering them with plastic shields.
Switch out summer screens with glass replacements from storage. If you have storm windows, install them.
4) Inspect Roof, Gutters & Downspouts:
If your weather temperature will fall below 32 degrees in the winter, adding extra insulation to the attic will prevent warm air from creeping to your roof and causing ice dams.
Check flashing to ensure water cannot enter the home.
Replace worn roof shingles or tiles.
Clean out the gutters and use a hose to spray water down the downspouts to clear away debris.
Consider installing leaf guards on the gutters or extensions on the downspouts to direct water away from the home.
5) Service Weather-Specific Equipment:
Drain gas from lawnmowers.
Service or tune-up snow blowers.
Replace worn rakes and snow shovels.
Clean, dry and store summer gardening equipment.
Sharpen ice choppers and buy bags of ice-melt / sand.
6) Check Foundations:
Rake away all debris and edible vegetation from the foundation.
Seal up entry points to keep small animals from crawling under the house.
Tuckpoint or seal foundation cracks. Mice can slip through space as thin as a dime.
Inspect sill plates for dry rot or pest infestation.
Secure crawlspace entrances.
7) Install Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors:
Some cities require a smoke detector in every room.
Buy extra smoke detector batteries and change them when daylight savings ends.
Install a carbon monoxide detector near your furnace and / or water heater.
Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to make sure they work.
Buy a fire extinguisher or replace an extinguisher older than 10 years.
8) Prevent Plumbing Freezes:
Locate your water main in the event you need to shut it off in an emergency.
Drain all garden hoses.
Insulate exposed plumbing pipes.
Drain air conditioner pipes and, if your AC has a water shut-off valve, turn it off.
If you go on vacation, leave the heat on, set to at least 55 degrees.
9) Prepare Landscaping & Outdoor Surfaces:
Trim trees if branches hang too close to the house or electrical wires.
Ask a gardener when your trees should be pruned to prevent winter injury.
Plant spring flower bulbs and lift bulbs that cannot winter over such as dahlias in areas where the ground freezes.
Seal driveways, brick patios and wood decks.
Don't automatically remove dead vegetation from gardens as some provide attractive scenery in an otherwise dreary, snow-drenched yard.
Move sensitive potted plants indoors or to a sheltered area.
10) Prepare an Emergency Kit:
Buy indoor candles and matches / lighter for use during a power shortage.
Find the phone numbers for your utility companies and tape them near your phone or inside the phone book.
Buy a battery back-up to protect your computer and sensitive electronic equipment.
Store extra bottled water and non-perishable food supplies (including pet food, if you have a pet), blankets and a first-aid kit in a dry and easy-to-access location.
Prepare an evacuation plan in the event of an emergency.
We hope you enjoy this issue of our November Newsletter
Call an HVAC professional to inspect your furnace and clean ducts.
Stock up on furnace filters and change them monthly.
Consider switching out your thermostat for a programmable thermostat.
If your home is heated by a hot-water radiator, bleed the valves by opening them slightly and when water appears, close them.
Remove all flammable material from the area surrounding your furnace.
2) Get the Fireplace Ready:
Cap or screen the top of the chimney to keep out rodents and birds.
If the chimney hasn't been cleaned for a while, call a chimney sweep to remove soot and creosote.
Buy firewood or chop wood.
Store it in a dry place away from the exterior of your home.
Inspect the fireplace damper for proper opening and closing.
Check the mortar between bricks and tuckpoint, if necessary.
3) Check the Exterior, Doors and Windows:
Inspect exterior for crevice cracks and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them.
Use weather-stripping around doors to prevent cold air from entering the home and caulk windows.
Replace cracked glass in windows and, if you end up replacing the entire window, prime and paint exposed wood.
If your home has a basement, consider protecting its window wells by covering them with plastic shields.
Switch out summer screens with glass replacements from storage. If you have storm windows, install them.
4) Inspect Roof, Gutters & Downspouts:
If your weather temperature will fall below 32 degrees in the winter, adding extra insulation to the attic will prevent warm air from creeping to your roof and causing ice dams.
Check flashing to ensure water cannot enter the home.
Replace worn roof shingles or tiles.
Clean out the gutters and use a hose to spray water down the downspouts to clear away debris.
Consider installing leaf guards on the gutters or extensions on the downspouts to direct water away from the home.
5) Service Weather-Specific Equipment:
Drain gas from lawnmowers.
Service or tune-up snow blowers.
Replace worn rakes and snow shovels.
Clean, dry and store summer gardening equipment.
Sharpen ice choppers and buy bags of ice-melt / sand.
6) Check Foundations:
Rake away all debris and edible vegetation from the foundation.
Seal up entry points to keep small animals from crawling under the house.
Tuckpoint or seal foundation cracks. Mice can slip through space as thin as a dime.
Inspect sill plates for dry rot or pest infestation.
Secure crawlspace entrances.
7) Install Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors:
Some cities require a smoke detector in every room.
Buy extra smoke detector batteries and change them when daylight savings ends.
Install a carbon monoxide detector near your furnace and / or water heater.
Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to make sure they work.
Buy a fire extinguisher or replace an extinguisher older than 10 years.
8) Prevent Plumbing Freezes:
Locate your water main in the event you need to shut it off in an emergency.
Drain all garden hoses.
Insulate exposed plumbing pipes.
Drain air conditioner pipes and, if your AC has a water shut-off valve, turn it off.
If you go on vacation, leave the heat on, set to at least 55 degrees.
9) Prepare Landscaping & Outdoor Surfaces:
Trim trees if branches hang too close to the house or electrical wires.
Ask a gardener when your trees should be pruned to prevent winter injury.
Plant spring flower bulbs and lift bulbs that cannot winter over such as dahlias in areas where the ground freezes.
Seal driveways, brick patios and wood decks.
Don't automatically remove dead vegetation from gardens as some provide attractive scenery in an otherwise dreary, snow-drenched yard.
Move sensitive potted plants indoors or to a sheltered area.
10) Prepare an Emergency Kit:
Buy indoor candles and matches / lighter for use during a power shortage.
Find the phone numbers for your utility companies and tape them near your phone or inside the phone book.
Buy a battery back-up to protect your computer and sensitive electronic equipment.
Store extra bottled water and non-perishable food supplies (including pet food, if you have a pet), blankets and a first-aid kit in a dry and easy-to-access location.
Prepare an evacuation plan in the event of an emergency.
We hope you enjoy this issue of our November Newsletter
Thursday, September 15, 2011
20 things to look for in a home inspection
September 09, 2011
Mark Weisleder
I continue to receive complaints from readers about problems that they
discover after closing their home purchase. Most complain about sellers who
fail to disclose defects or home inspectors who fail to find them. The system is far from perfect. However, there are steps that buyers can take before and during a home inspection to protect their interests.
Check all electrical outlets to make sure that they work.
Open windows, even in the winter, to make sure they are not stuck or painted shut.
Look under any area rug or bed and behind any picture to check for cracked
tiles, stained carpets or walls. Lift anything on the kitchen counters to look for defects.
Do any of the appliances show any rust? How old are they? If they are
discontinued models, you will likely have to replace them if they break down because of the difficulty of finding replacement parts.
Start the dishwasher at the beginning of any home inspection.
By the end, it should have gone through its entire cycle, without leaking.
Put a thermometer inside the oven and turn it on to 350 degrees. After 10
minutes, check the temperature. Test stove burners.
Put a cup of water in the microwave for 45 seconds. Does it heat up?
Flush every toilet and see whether it stops running after it is filled.
Check sinks, tubs and showers in the house. Is there proper water flow from
each faucet and does everything drain properly?
You may want to consider turning all the faucets on at the same time and then flushing a toilet upstairs to see whether the water pressure slows or stops in any sink. This could indicate a problem with the system.
In older homes, consider a separate sewage inspection. Stan Collini, the
President of Roto-Rooter Plumbing and Drain Service in the GTA, tells me that for $295, you can do a video camera of a property’s sewer system to see if there are any problems that would not be visible on a typical home inspection.
Check under the water heater for leaks or stains on the floor.
Ask how old the air conditioning unit is and when was it last serviced Is there sufficient hot or cold air reaching all of the rooms in the house?
Does the owner have a plan with their gas company to inspect the furnace once a year? When was the last inspection conducted?]
If the house has an addition, ask whether any upgrade was done to the heating or cooling systems to account for the additional living area.
Look for water stains in the ceiling which could indicate leaking from the roof or other problems with the plumbing system.
When your inspector is on the roof, ask them to check for broken or cracked shingles. If it is a flat roof, look for the low spots where water can collect for any evidence of a problem. Check the eaves to see if there is any rot or decay. If any concerns are noted, consider bringing in a roofing contractor for an additional opinion, especially if the home is 15-20 years old and it is still the original roof.
You may also want to consider a separate inspection for mould or termites, as these may not be visible on a home inspection but can result in significant costs to repair later. Check if this is a known problem in the area.
Always ask the seller and the seller’s agent if they know about any hidden defects that are not visible. They must answer truthfully if you ask them.
Consider looking into after-sale warranty protection. Many of these products on the market will generally cover problems with a home electrical, plumbing,heating and cooling system, as well as the major appliances. But like any warranty, ask about deductibles and what is excluded from coverage.
By being properly prepared and asking the right questions both before and during any home inspection, you will be better protected against costly
surprises after closing.
Mark Weisleder
I continue to receive complaints from readers about problems that they
discover after closing their home purchase. Most complain about sellers who
fail to disclose defects or home inspectors who fail to find them. The system is far from perfect. However, there are steps that buyers can take before and during a home inspection to protect their interests.
Check all electrical outlets to make sure that they work.
Open windows, even in the winter, to make sure they are not stuck or painted shut.
Look under any area rug or bed and behind any picture to check for cracked
tiles, stained carpets or walls. Lift anything on the kitchen counters to look for defects.
Do any of the appliances show any rust? How old are they? If they are
discontinued models, you will likely have to replace them if they break down because of the difficulty of finding replacement parts.
Start the dishwasher at the beginning of any home inspection.
By the end, it should have gone through its entire cycle, without leaking.
Put a thermometer inside the oven and turn it on to 350 degrees. After 10
minutes, check the temperature. Test stove burners.
Put a cup of water in the microwave for 45 seconds. Does it heat up?
Flush every toilet and see whether it stops running after it is filled.
Check sinks, tubs and showers in the house. Is there proper water flow from
each faucet and does everything drain properly?
You may want to consider turning all the faucets on at the same time and then flushing a toilet upstairs to see whether the water pressure slows or stops in any sink. This could indicate a problem with the system.
In older homes, consider a separate sewage inspection. Stan Collini, the
President of Roto-Rooter Plumbing and Drain Service in the GTA, tells me that for $295, you can do a video camera of a property’s sewer system to see if there are any problems that would not be visible on a typical home inspection.
Check under the water heater for leaks or stains on the floor.
Ask how old the air conditioning unit is and when was it last serviced Is there sufficient hot or cold air reaching all of the rooms in the house?
Does the owner have a plan with their gas company to inspect the furnace once a year? When was the last inspection conducted?]
If the house has an addition, ask whether any upgrade was done to the heating or cooling systems to account for the additional living area.
Look for water stains in the ceiling which could indicate leaking from the roof or other problems with the plumbing system.
When your inspector is on the roof, ask them to check for broken or cracked shingles. If it is a flat roof, look for the low spots where water can collect for any evidence of a problem. Check the eaves to see if there is any rot or decay. If any concerns are noted, consider bringing in a roofing contractor for an additional opinion, especially if the home is 15-20 years old and it is still the original roof.
You may also want to consider a separate inspection for mould or termites, as these may not be visible on a home inspection but can result in significant costs to repair later. Check if this is a known problem in the area.
Always ask the seller and the seller’s agent if they know about any hidden defects that are not visible. They must answer truthfully if you ask them.
Consider looking into after-sale warranty protection. Many of these products on the market will generally cover problems with a home electrical, plumbing,heating and cooling system, as well as the major appliances. But like any warranty, ask about deductibles and what is excluded from coverage.
By being properly prepared and asking the right questions both before and during any home inspection, you will be better protected against costly
surprises after closing.
Monday, September 12, 2011
Toronto GTA REALTORS® REPORT AUGUST RESALE MARKET FIGURES
Greater Toronto REALTORS® reported 7,542 sales through the TorontoMLS® system in August – a 24 per cent increase over 6,083 sales in August 2010. New listings, at 12,509, were up by 20 per cent compared to August 2010. Market conditions remained tight as sales growth outstripped growth in new listings.
Sunday, September 4, 2011
For sale: 91 Medland Cres, High Park,Toronto, M6P2N3 ~Open House Sunday Sept 4, 1-4pm
http://t.co/R7xaG8E
http://t.co/R7xaG8E
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Toronto Real Estate Downtown Report - April/May Market Report 2011
SALES COMMENTARY:
March continued the upward trend in sales, as 9200 units were sold on TREB. This number was 11% lower than March of 2010 which was a record. In April we are expecting about 9600 sales which will again be lower than last year’s record number. In spite of what the media reports, this market is very strong – what separates it from last year are really two factors: first the poor weather in comparison to last year’s spring; and secondly, a lack of listing inventory – new listings in March were 19% lower than in March a year ago. When the weather improves and listings increase, we expect to see 2011 sales on a monthly basis move ahead of 2010 perhaps by May or June at the latest. No one is forecasting that except us!
The downtown condo market presents a different market. Here condo sales in March were 6% higher than March of 2010. This trend will continue for the balance of the year. The reason of course is that so many new condo projects are being registered and are entering the resale market. The question being asked is can the market absorb this many new units? The answer is yes!! The sale-to-listing ratio downtown for condos was 48% this March versus 55% last March – not much of a difference when you factor in all the new condos entering the resale market.
This month, we tracked sales at a newly registered condo – the Vibe at 100 Western Battery in Liberty Village. It was built by Monarch and was just registered at the end of 2010. The first unit we tracked was a two-bedroom/2 bath unit with parking sold by the Developer in 2009 for $390,000. The identical unit, at 838 sf, sold in January and February of this year for $424,000 and $425,000. By March the unit sold for $433,000 or $515 per sf. A smaller unit at 611 sf – a one-bedroom with parking sold at the end of 2010 for $305,000 (probably as an assignment). Two identical units sold in February this year for $322,000 and $324,000 or $530 per sf. The point to be made for buyers is that assignments are cheaper and once the building is registered prices usually go up by $20,000.
RENTAL COMMENTARY:
As predicted, rental rates are moving up and there is a significant shortage of available units, even with record rental volumes. There were 22 studios, 383 one-bedroom units and 223 two-bedroom units leased in March. The number of rentals is an indication that the majority of investors in the pre-construction market have decided to rent rather than sell their units at registration! Studios leased at an average rate of $1325. One-bedroom units without parking averaged $1550. Add a den plus parking and you can pay $1725! Renters are now looking to convert a den into a second bedroom. The market for two-bedroom units is also in high demand and units start at $1950 and go to $2400 for a den and parking. There are no three bedroom units in the market place – developers don’t build them! Only five units were leased last month at an average price of $3500. How tight is this market? The average one bedroom stays on the market 6-10 days and many attract multiple offers.
March continued the upward trend in sales, as 9200 units were sold on TREB. This number was 11% lower than March of 2010 which was a record. In April we are expecting about 9600 sales which will again be lower than last year’s record number. In spite of what the media reports, this market is very strong – what separates it from last year are really two factors: first the poor weather in comparison to last year’s spring; and secondly, a lack of listing inventory – new listings in March were 19% lower than in March a year ago. When the weather improves and listings increase, we expect to see 2011 sales on a monthly basis move ahead of 2010 perhaps by May or June at the latest. No one is forecasting that except us!
The downtown condo market presents a different market. Here condo sales in March were 6% higher than March of 2010. This trend will continue for the balance of the year. The reason of course is that so many new condo projects are being registered and are entering the resale market. The question being asked is can the market absorb this many new units? The answer is yes!! The sale-to-listing ratio downtown for condos was 48% this March versus 55% last March – not much of a difference when you factor in all the new condos entering the resale market.
This month, we tracked sales at a newly registered condo – the Vibe at 100 Western Battery in Liberty Village. It was built by Monarch and was just registered at the end of 2010. The first unit we tracked was a two-bedroom/2 bath unit with parking sold by the Developer in 2009 for $390,000. The identical unit, at 838 sf, sold in January and February of this year for $424,000 and $425,000. By March the unit sold for $433,000 or $515 per sf. A smaller unit at 611 sf – a one-bedroom with parking sold at the end of 2010 for $305,000 (probably as an assignment). Two identical units sold in February this year for $322,000 and $324,000 or $530 per sf. The point to be made for buyers is that assignments are cheaper and once the building is registered prices usually go up by $20,000.
RENTAL COMMENTARY:
As predicted, rental rates are moving up and there is a significant shortage of available units, even with record rental volumes. There were 22 studios, 383 one-bedroom units and 223 two-bedroom units leased in March. The number of rentals is an indication that the majority of investors in the pre-construction market have decided to rent rather than sell their units at registration! Studios leased at an average rate of $1325. One-bedroom units without parking averaged $1550. Add a den plus parking and you can pay $1725! Renters are now looking to convert a den into a second bedroom. The market for two-bedroom units is also in high demand and units start at $1950 and go to $2400 for a den and parking. There are no three bedroom units in the market place – developers don’t build them! Only five units were leased last month at an average price of $3500. How tight is this market? The average one bedroom stays on the market 6-10 days and many attract multiple offers.
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